Etosha

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A new Zebra on the way?






Zebras in Etosha





Etosha, meaning "Great White Place", is dominated by a massive mineral pan. The pan is part of the Kalahari Basin, the floor of which was formed around 1000 million years ago. The Pan covers around 25% of the National Park and was originally a lake fed by the Kunene River. However the course of the river changed thousands of years ago and the lake dried up. Today the is a large dusty depression of salt and clay which fills only if the rains are heavy and even then only holds water for a short time. The perennial springs along the edges of the Etosha Pan draw large concentrations of wildlife and birds.

















They are so pretty! Especially in large groups.

















In Etosha you camp within well fenced areas in the park and are only allowed outside those gates between sunrise and sunset. You are not allowed to leave your car outside of designated areas in the park. The first morning we woke before sunrise to the sound of lions roaring and left the camp by sunrise. After driving for half an hour we had a puncture. A proper one! The tyre was totally flat. We were in an area with high shrub so not ideal if you want to see if something is stalking you. Magnus was sent out to inflate the tyre while Ulrica was looking out for large cats. Luckily the tyre held the air pretty good so we could drive to an area 30 km away where it felt more safe to change to the spare one.








Helmeted guineafowl, they where everywhere, in big groups and could never make up their mind about what side of the road they wanted to stay on.






We saw two black rhinos fighting in a waterhole. Very noisy brawling at each other and drawing blood.




















The left one eventually won.













Kori bustard







Very early morning and a giraffe drinking from a puddle on the road.







We had heavy rain one night. The winter rains in Etosha starting extremely early this year. The locals were all very happy about that, smiling and hoping for good rains this year. Different priorities when you live in a country constituting mainly of the Namib Desert and the Kalahari Desert.
















Red Hartebeest








We almost drove past her early morning.










She is posing very nicely for us with the vast Etosha salt pan in the backdrop.































This is the reason we know it is a "she". She had her two cubs with her.







That body is built for speed!

















Black faced Impala







This warthog took plenty of time to first build a little mud bath at the edge of the waterhole and then sit in it rubbing his bottom thoroughly.
















Springbok


















This looks so very awkward. It takes plenty of time for a giraffe to drink. They take their time approaching the waterhole looking very careful out for predators.








Two male lions was relaxing by a waterhole. It was very interesting to watch the build up on the opposite side of all the animals who wanted a sip of water but did not dare approach the hole due to the presence of the lions.






We watched this poor jackal chasing birds for at least two hours. No luck!






He really really wanted just one of the doves.








A big elephant bull enters the scene by the waterhole. He does not join the now rather large crowd of animals that linger around not daring to approach the water because of the lions (wildebeest, impalas, sprinbok, kudu, giraffes and zebras). He just stomps down, chase off one of the lions, have a sip of water and then storms off. We think one of the zebras had phoned for him.














Stomping down to the water




























You appreciate the size of the giraffe.








Kudu

















Banded mongoose









Damara dik-dik, tiny little animals and very cute.


























Small and shy, quite the opposite from fighting black rhinos.





We spotted the dik-diks on our way out of the park for the last time. It was mid-day, very hot and time for lunch. So we agreed the dik-dik sighting was a perfect end to our great safari in Etosha and we considered ourselves very lucky to have spotted these shy and small animals. We packed away the camera and headed for the gate, looking forward to a late lunch by the pool at Onguma lodge. Neither one of us sees the large, well camouflaged cat, resting by the side of the road at a sharp bend until we are just upon it. Ending up stopping the car with the cat about 1,5 m from the front tyre. Magnus is finding himself staring a leopard in the face looking up at him through the open window. They have about 2 meters between their eyes! What do you do? Reach for the camera or close the window? Magnus opted for the camera, but the leopard gets up and slowly walks around the back of the care and away (giving a springbok the fright of a lifetime). We still managed to get a few shots, one when the leopard stops and stars at us rather annoyed.




















A rather well deserved afternoon tea by the pool at Onguma lodge